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Posted in : Bluejay

Haldorsvik to Torshavn


From Haldorsvik we set sail for Midvagur 48.9nm away- This was a thrilling sail with a max speed of 10knots. An early start leaving the Lonely small town of Haldarsvik with its unusual octagonal church, the only one in the Faroes. The coastline out of the fjord was Running with waterfalls slidings down cliffs and spectacular rock formations, Passing Fossa the tallest waterfall in the Faroes which was seen on a walk and then a sail; we then continue Sailing, fast then slow as we contended with the vagaries of the wind funnelling down valleys.

After a run out west to sea we tucked into the coast at Vaagoe Island passing between Muggenaes and Vaagoe saw us dodge some shallow patches with wind against waves and tide causing some rough breaking seas. Wendy kept a steady hand on the helm as we passed through this area.

The southern coast of Vaagoe provided spectacular cliff scenary and the waterfall Bosdalafoss that falls from Soervaagrvand- the largest lake in the Faroes.

We docked in Midvagur alongside a small fishing boat hoping they would not be on their way out at 3am.

The local pizza cafe was a great little spot for a beer and hot chips! As always the A watch meal was delicious with chef Sue and sous chef Amancio ( from B watch) creating a culinary delight of roast potato, stir fried veg and wonderfully marinated turkey. Amancio’s creative expertise with herbs and spices always results in mouth watering meals. We are so lucky that he is on board.

Monday saw a wet morning with everyone relaxing. Stephen, David, and Ian headed off to the lakeside walk when the skies cleared a little. Unfortunately the lakeside walk was closed for repairs. Meeting up with Sue, Stephen and Ian continued up through town  to the hillside hike to the cliffs and the waterfall. The sheer height and magnificence of the cliffs was stunning. It was amazing to be on the cliffs that we had sailed past the previous day. With the seas much rougher, the swells were pounding on the rocks as high as the waterfall. The late afternoon light on the lake gave an image of an infinity pool.

Another early morning start on Tuesday 27th saw us off by 6.45 am to head up to the city of Tórshavn. Again the coastline was spectacular with an ethereal performance of light, shadows, dancing waves and an icing of clouds.

A short run of 22 nm saw us tied up in Tórshavn downtown with cafes just metres away. Again Patrick and Alex slotted Bluejay into a seemingly impossible spot with their usual skill and calm. A check of restaurants showed that as per Scandinavia- culinary delights are expensive. Amancio once agin produced a delectable meal of lasagna. After dinner drinks were had at a 3 storey bar -Sirkus with 3 levels. We relaxed in lounge chairs on the 3rd level amidst some very interesting decor.

Wednesday 28th was a free day to explore the town. Wendy and Lindsay put in some time working the passage and pilotage to Stornaway. Patrick, Sue, Ian and Amancio after sorting routes and bus times, took the hike to Kirjubour. This is an historic village with a 12th century small cathedral. A free bus provided us with a quick and easy ride back to Tórshavn. David meanwhile visited the national gallery and saw some Faroese art and sculpture. Most of us have mentioned a wish to return to the Faeroes to see more and drive through all of the tunnels that connect the isolated villages on islands and the islands themselves.

Departure has been delayed this morning due to a low pressure system misbehaving and spoiling our planned sail. So we have a bit of cleaning and tidying to do now and some more time to explore this lovely town of Tórshavn.

Bluejay relaxing in the sun before an afternoon of preparation for the open seas on our way down to Scotland has left most of the crew relaxing and a soaking up another couple of coffees watching the world go by.


More to come from Bluejay after our little jaunt across the open sea.

Sue Leith