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Abstract
Author Freya Elsan sails through the Faroe Islands for a unique adventure vacation beyond the limits of roads and ferries. This article recounts her journey with Rubicon 3 on their Trolls, Giants & Elves adventure, exploring dramatic cliffs, remote fjords, and Viking heritage by sea. From the Vestmanna Cliffs to the puffin-filled island of Mykines, Freya highlights why the Faroe Islands vacation is best experienced under sail.
I woke to the gentle rock of the yacht, the scent of salt in the air, and the distant cries of seabirds drifting across the water. Climbing up on deck, I took in the scene; our Clipper 60 Hummingbird was anchored in a glassy fjord, flanked by sheer cliffs streaked with green and black basalt. This was the Faroe Islands, where nature reigns, where the ocean and the land feel like living forces, constantly shifting, shaping, and testing those who venture here.
We had arrived by sea, and I can tell you now – this is the only proper way to experience this wild archipelago. Unlike those who had to wait for ferries or navigate winding roads, we could sail where we pleased to explore the Faroe Islands as the Vikings once did. Over the past days, we had ventured deep into fjords, dropped anchor beneath towering cliffs, and stepped ashore in tiny villages where time seemed to slow. I had been looking for a Faroe Islands vacation for a while. This was that and more: an adventure, a challenge, and an unforgettable journey into the unknown.
About the Faroe Islands
When my husband first suggested visiting the Faroe Islands, I’ll admit I had to look up where these islands were. The islands are a scattering of 18 volcanic peaks in the North Atlantic Ocean, sit halfway between Norway and Iceland. They are remote, wind-lashed, and barely touched by mass tourism. Under Danish sovereignty but largely self-governing, the islands are home to just over 50,000 people, although most live on Streymoy Island, where the capital Tórshavn is found.
Descended from Norse settlers, the Faroese speak a language that still carries echoes of Old Norse, and their culture is steeped in maritime tradition. The archipelago is world famous for its raw, untamed beauty. Towering sea cliffs hold some of the largest seabird colonies on the planet. Mist and wild fogs drape over deep fjords, and turf-roofed houses disappear into the hills. It is no wonder UNESCO has recognized the islands for their beauty and cultural heritage, and those who are lucky enough to visit feel like they are at the very edge of the world.
Unlocking the Faroe Islands: A Journey Only Possible by Boat
Having caught the bug, I spoke with a friend about the best way to visit the Faroe Islands. They had been before, driving the narrow roads, waiting for ferries, but frequently missing places that were only accessible from the sea. A rental car, they warned, simply wouldn’t be enough. The rugged terrain, deep fjords, and towering cliffs meant entire coastlines and remote villages were cut off from easy access. Even ferries, running on limited schedules, made it impossible to visit multiple highlights in the same day. Sailing, they said, was the only way. From a yacht, you can anchor beneath towering cliffs, navigate fjords untouched by roads, and step ashore in remote villages where the only visitors arrive by sea. Enter Rubicon 3, one of Europe’s leading adventure sailing operators, renowned for welcoming novice sailors on their expeditions with the promise of expert training, hands-on experience, and unwavering support
Sailing Into the Wild
The trip to the Faroe Islands began in Largs, Scotland, where I met the crew for the first time. For some of us, this was our first trip sailing offshore, while others had years of experience. But it didn’t matter. Under our skipper’s and mate’s expert guidance, we quickly became a team: hoisting sails, trimming lines, and preparing for the open water ahead.
As we cast off and motored out into the Firth of Clyde, the land slowly receded behind us, and a quiet sense of anticipation settled over the crew. Ahead lay the North Atlantic Ocean, a 36-hour passage to the Faroe Islands. Before departure, we had studied our Faroe Islands itinerary, marking key points along the route—from the wild Vestmanna Cliffs to the remote island of Mykines—but we knew that no plan could fully capture what lay ahead. The real adventure would unfold with the wind, the waves, and the ever-changing Faroese weather. The first few hours were a steady beat northward along Scotland’s rugged west coast, with the jagged peaks of the Isle of Skye fading into the horizon. Then came the real test—open water, no land in sight, just the rhythm of the waves and the challenge of an offshore watch system.
That first night at sea was unforgettable. With the wind filling our sails, we surged forward, each gust sending seawater spray across the deck. We took turns at the helm, adjusting to the sensation of guiding a 60-foot yacht through the dark, rolling sea. The sky was ink-black, littered with stars, the Milky Way stretching in a shimmering arc above us.
By dawn, the swells had grown, rising and falling in long, rolling sets; enough to remind us of the raw power of the North Atlantic but not enough to slow us down. Dolphins appeared off the bow, weaving through the waves like silver torpedoes, their sleek bodies breaking the surface before disappearing into the deep.
Throughout the day, we settled into the rhythm of offshore sailing. Some of us took catnaps on the leeward benches of the cockpit, lulled to sleep by the steady hum of the wind and waves. Others kept a close eye on the Faroe Islands map, checking our progress and adjusting course as needed. Meals were a shared effort with hot drinks and steaming bowls of food passed carefully from hand to hand as we braced against the boat’s motion.
As we entered our second night at sea, the excitement of landfall started to build. The winds shifted slightly, forcing us onto a new tack. Still, by dawn, we could make out a faint smudge on the horizon: Streymoy Island, the largest in the Faroe Islands archipelago. The closer we got, the more the details emerged, with towering cliffs rising straight from the sea, streaked with waterfalls, their green slopes plunging into the deep Atlantic below.
We followed the coastline toward Tórshavn, the capital city of the Faroe Islands, its colorful houses clustered around a natural harbor. As we sailed in, we passed traditional fishing boats bobbing at their moorings, the smell of salt and seaweed thick in the air. By the time we tied up at the dock, the exhaustion of the passage had given way to exhilaration: we had made it, crossing 250 nautical miles of open ocean to arrive in one of the most remote and stunning scenery locations in the world.
Sailing Through the Faroese Weather: Four Seasons in an Hour
As we sailed north from Tórshavn toward Vestmanna, the weather became as much a part of the adventure as the landscape. One moment, the sun bathed the cliffs in golden light, illuminating the emerald-green slopes in an almost surreal way. The next, a thick bank of mist rolled in from the North Atlantic Ocean, swallowing the coastline and leaving us sailing through a world of soft, shifting greys.
The Faroe Islands’ unpredictable weather kept us on our toes. Within an hour, we experienced everything from calm seas and brilliant blue skies to sudden gusts of wind carrying fine mist across the deck. We reefed the sails, adjusting to the sudden strengthening of the wind, only for the rain to clear as quickly as it arrived. We had yet another panorama of dramatic cliffs and vast, ancient fjords.
This constant change made each passage feel like a new adventure as if the islands were revealing themselves piece by piece. In another scenario, it could have been unsettling. Still, with the calm authority and expertise of our Skipper and mate, we could relax, sailing through a living, breathing world and one that shifted and transformed with every mile we covered.
Vestmanna Sea Cliffs: A Fortress of Stone and Birds
Our first real taste of the islands came as we approached Vestmanna, home to the Faroes’ most dramatic cliffs. Rising hundreds of meters from the ocean, these sheer sea cliffs were alive with seabirds, puffins, guillemots, kittiwakes, circling and diving in a swirling mass above us.
As we sailed closer, jagged sea stacks jutted out from the water like sentinels guarding the towering cliffs. These isolated rock formations, sculpted by wind and waves over thousands of years, were home to countless seabirds, their cries echoing against the sheer walls. Many visitors take boat trips from the mainland to see these cliffs, but arriving on our own yacht made the experience even more special.
Saksun: The Hidden Lagoon and Charming Village
The following day, we set sail for Saksun, a village hidden deep within a fjord, accessible only by boat or a long, winding road. Here, a lagoon stretches out beneath towering cliffs, reflecting the sky in its still, mirror-like surface.
We anchored and rowed ashore, walking up through the village past turf-roofed houses that looked as if they had grown straight from the land. A small wooden church stood at the edge of the lagoon, its white walls stark against the deep green of the valley.
We hiked higher, following one of the many hiking trails that zigzagged up the mountainside until we reached a viewpoint that took my breath away. From the highest ridge, we could see far beyond Saksun, with the peaks of Eysturoy Island rising in the distance, their jagged silhouettes standing against the ever-changing sky. Far below, our boat sat tiny in the vastness of the fjord, the ocean stretching beyond, untouched and wild.
Mykines: An Island for the Birds
From Vestmanna, we set course for Mykines, the westernmost island in the Faroes and home to its largest puffin colony. Stepping ashore, we followed a winding trail that led us up through grassy meadows, where thousands of puffins nested in burrows, their bright orange beaks and comical waddle making them impossible not to love.
The path led us across a narrow bridge to Mykineshólmur, a tiny islet topped with a lighthouse. The view was staggering. Waves crashing against black volcanic cliffs, mist rolling across the peaks, and endless ocean stretching beyond the horizon. This was one of the most breathtaking islands in the Faroes, where seabirds outnumber people, and nature still feels untamed.
Kalsoy: The Path to Kallur Lighthouse
Sailing north, we reached Kalsoy, known for its rugged cliffs, remote location and Kallur Lighthouse. The Faroe Islands consist of 18 volcanic islands, each with its dramatic landscapes, but Kalsoy is one of the most striking. Often called the “Flute Island” due to its long, narrow shape and deep valleys, it feels untouched and almost mythical. The hike was steep and windy, but the view from the top was as fantastic as any we had seen, even if the fog obscured various sections.
At the edge of the cliffs, the lighthouse stood solitary, its white walls a stark contrast against the brooding sky. To the north, the Faroe Islands unfurled like a forgotten world, untouched and wild. In the distance, we could make out the northern islands, Kunoy, Viðoy, Fugloy, and Svínoy, rising from the sea, their jagged peaks shrouded in mist. These islands are some of the most remote in the archipelago, rarely visited except by the most adventurous travelers. The sight of them, barely visible through the haze, reinforced the feeling that we had reached the edge of the world, sailing in waters few had ever experienced.
On the way back, we stopped at Mikladalur, a tiny village where we found the statue of the Seal Woman, a haunting figure from Faroese legend. The story goes that she was a selkie, a seal who could shed her skin and become human, only to be trapped on land by a fisherman who stole her skin. Eventually, she found it and returned to the sea, leaving behind the life she had known. The statue, set against the crashing waves, captured that sense of longing, of something just out of reach.
Gjógv: A Taste of Faroese Culture
Another highlight was Gjógv, a tiny and charming village on the northeast coast of Eysturoy Island, famous for its natural harbour. This was where I truly felt the heart of Faroe Islands culture. Locals warmly greeted us, sharing stories over a meal of fresh fish and homemade bread.
After dinner, we walked up to the top of the cliffs, where the entire village spread out below us, tiny turf-roofed houses glowing in the evening light. The wind carried the sound of waves crashing against the rocks, and for the first time in days, we saw the faint glow of city lights on the horizon, a distant reminder of the world we’d left behind.
Múlafossur Waterfall: Nature’s Masterpiece
Before our journey ended, we made one final stop at Múlafossur Waterfall, the most breathtaking cascade in the Faroes, located on Streymoy Island.
A short walk from the village of Gásadalur led us to the edge of the cliffs, where we had an unobstructed view of the waterfall plunging straight into the sea. Towering above us, the dramatic cliffs framed the scene perfectly, their rugged edges shaped by centuries of wind and waves. The mist from the falls mixed with the salty sea air, and the late afternoon sun cast a golden glow over the landscape.
How to Get to and From the Faroe Islands
Flying into Inverness (Scotland)
For those traveling from the USA, the best way to reach Inverness is to take a connecting flight through a major European hub such as London (LHR), Amsterdam (AMS), or Copenhagen (CPH). Direct flights to Inverness (INV) are available from London Gatwick and Heathrow, with some seasonal flights from Amsterdam. From Inverness, it’s an easy transfer to Largs, Scotland, where the adventure begins.
Flying Home from the Faroe Islands
After finishing the trip in Tórshavn, the capital city, the best route home is via Vágar Airport (FAE), the only international airport in the Faroe Islands. Boat tours and ferries operate between islands, but flying is the easiest way to leave. Vágar has frequent flights to Copenhagen, Reykjavik, and Edinburgh, making it easy to connect back to the USA on various routes.
For those looking to extend their adventure, renting your own car and exploring the islands further is an option. The unpredictable weather makes driving conditions for a car rental variable, there arefew places to fuel and you will probably not get to the more remote islands, but the stunning scenery more than makes up for it.
Would Rubicon 3 Be Right For You?
If you crave adventure over luxury, enjoy learning new skills, and want to have a Faroe Islands trip in a way few ever do, then Rubicon 3 is for you. The trips are perfect for novice sailors, solo travelers and older crew (our average age was mid-50s), making them ideal for anyone looking to push their limits in a supportive, adventurous environment and learn new skills. Their expert skippers provide hands-on training, ensuring you’re part of the crew from day one in one of the world’s most awe-inspiring destinations.
Sailing the Faroe Islands with Rubicon 3
- Trip Name: Trolls, Giants & Elves: Scotland & the Faroe Islands
- Getting There: Fly into Inverness, Scotland (INV)
- Departure Port: Largs, Scotland
- Getting Home: Fly out of Vágar Airport, Faroe Islands (FAE)
- Best Time to Visit Faroe Islands: June – September (long daylight hours, best sailing conditions, peak wildlife activity)
- More Info: Visit Faroe Islands
- Get a local sim card to send home the amazing pictures and videos
