Starling 13:51, 08.03.20

With just over 2000 miles left to go, we’re almost one third of the way across the Pacific! Wahoo! And so far, we haven’t used the GPS. Yep, that’s right – it’s been sextant torture and maths all the way. Everyone is taking to celestial nav fast and even when we only get one sight in a day we can still update our EPs, which have become pleasingly accurate! Unfortunately, Rachael’s happy hour teaching sessions have all-too-frequently been upstaged by passing wildlife. Somehow, having gone 23 hours and 30 mins without seeing anything, we are frequently greeted at exactly 1730 by something like a) an enormous pod of dolphins, b) white boobies (you’ll have to google them); or c) a flying fish landing at the feet of the helmsperson, causing much shrieking that was probably heard in our destination 2000 miles away. It’s almost got to the stage where people come to happy hour just to see the show, as Rachael sighs in despair…teeheehee.
Arabella

Purple Passion in the Pacific

Twice a day the 35 boats taking part in the World ARC report their positions to each other on the long range radio. We exchange tales of the last 24 hours, compare wind and weather conditions, and listen to who has caught the biggest fish. This is starting to become a somewhat painful exercise because so far we have caught absolutely nothing. Others have been boasting about 40lb wahoos in an old-school, mid-ocean version of a Facebook status update. Angus has had his line out every day with a mean-looking silver and orange diver on it. Not to be outdone I have also put out a hand line with a truly irresistible pink squid complete with sparkly white feathers. Despite the fact that it colour-coordinates with Starling’s wrap (which is more than can be said for my own outfits) the local marine life is not convinced and to date we have only caught each other’s lines, and spent the best part of an hour untangling them! Our haul is limited to one small flying fish and a kamikaze squid, both of which launched themselves onto our decks this morning. (Sophia considered whether or not to eat the road kill but decided it is a little too early in the voyage for that) We are consoling ourselves with the fact that it has finally stopped raining, and we are having a fantastic reach, making 8kn in the right direction after finally clearing the doldrums and entering the SE’ly trade wind belt of the South Pacific. Rachael

Tea crisis on Starling!

Good evening from the big pink bird again. Today I bring bad news and a request for outside assistance: we are running out of teabags, and it is only day 3 of 21. “How could a boat load of Brits possibly end up in this predicament?” I hear you ask? Unfortunately we have lost some of our precious Yorkshire teabag supplies to a galley spillage, which soaked through the plastic wrapper and destroyed one of the mega boxes that I imported to Panama in an expensive but totally-worth-it excess baggage. We have carefully snipped open the bags and salvaged some of the leaves, in the hope that they can be sprinkled in the bottom of a teapot when we get desperate. As skipper the responsibility for this incident lies with me of course, so I will sacrifice my favourite pair of socks as a tea strainer.

I don’t know what will happen when the tannin addicts on board go cold turkey, it could be dangerous. Wendy drinks so much of it that I suspect this is the cause of her tan, rather than the sun. If it gets really bad we could see scenes like those of Blackadder Goes Forth, with underpants being worn on heads, pencils stuck up noses and no hope of finding Marquesas. So if someone could arrange a delivery by carrier pigeon (or blue-footed booby which is the local branch of Birdmail), we will be forever grateful. We are the bright pink bird in the big blue ocean, 250 miles southwest of Galapagos. Can’t miss us. Rachael

Happy days sailing around the world on Starling

Howdy folks (I think that’s what we say now we’re south of the equator), we are enjoying a beautiful moonlit second night of our trans-Pacific voyage from the Galapagos to the Marquesas islands. We have been ghosting along at 4kn or so for the last few hours, on a light SE’ly breeze which we hope is the fringe of the stronger trade winds that we are trying to reach further south. We had a busy final few days in Santa Cruz, with Patrice and Felicity showing the Yankee 2 some love, Angus putting antichafe protection on the spreaders and servicing the main engine, Suzy, Tom and Michelle took on the fresh produce market, carrying home what can only be described as a small banana tree laden with fruit, and more melons, pineapples and pumpkins than you can shake a papaya at.

Meanwhile Wendy and Sophia discovered that some of our dried stores had been invaded by rice weevils which are a small, harmless insect common in South America. They seemed to have come on board in the rice we bought in Panama and then spread to other foodstuffs. After cursing the ‘Super 99’ shop where we bought it they set to work, their professions as a chemical engineer and a farmer put to good use eradicating the little blighters. I would like to issue a warning to all pests considering a visit to Sophia’s farm: it really isn’t worth it, however green the grass may look on the other side! The boat and crew are all in fine fettle for the next 3000nm and 20 days of sailing, but it is a long way and anything could happen so we are mindful of looking after each other and our bright pink bird and enjoying some glorious sailing.

Sailing in the Galapagos with Rubicon 3

Isabela was our second stop in the Galápagos Islands and it turned out to be an absolute gem. We had been warned that the anchorage was small and the approach difficult but we took the plunge and decided to head there anyway. We Starlings will do anything for an adventure! Patrice expertly navigated us in, realising that in some parts of the world navionics and paper charts do not correspond to the actual situation. Nevertheless, we found a spot and awaited the authorities, who come in groups of around 8-10 and represent a lengthy check-in process!

Once cleared in, the fun could begin. Starting with climbing over many a seal on the water taxi pontoon and watching the penguins dive in and out between the fishing boats. The seals, penguins and giant black iguanas all seem totally at ease with each other, coexisting on land and in the water quite happily. And they are equally unbothered by the humans milling around right next to them. Perhaps that is the result of the comprehensive protection of all species here in Galapagos – the animals feel safe and therefore it is much easier to get close to them. Who knows!

On day two in Isabela, Sophia, Wendy and Arabella went on a hike up Sierra Negra, a giant volcano caldera that is still active, and then on to the spectacular lava fields just beyond, where you can see tunnels created by lava flow and all sorts of whacky lava formations. Meanwhile, Tom and Suzy went kayaking to see the penguins and by all accounts had a fab time!

The next day saw the whole of Starling’s crew go on a trip to Los Tuneles together.  It started with a 45-minute boat trip to some awesome rock formations where lava flow created natural tunnels and bridges on the coast that are now home to tons of wildlife, including blue-footed boobies on land and turtles and white-tipped sharks in the lagoons between the rocks. It was a truly extraordinary sight and nothing like anything any of us had seen before.

Following a short exploration there, we took the plunge with our guide and went on a snorkel adventure. We came face-to-face with dozens of giant hawksbill turtles, nurse sharks and white-tipped sharks; and the highlight was definitely the two seahorses!! Notoriously difficult to find in the wild, we found one orange one and one purple one wrapped around the branch of a sunken tree. What a rare treat! They are such beautiful creatures…

Overall, visiting Isabela has been an absolute pleasure and a privilege. We were one of only a handful of yachts there and it is a largely unpopulated island. The landscape is unique and the sheer volume of wildlife is overwhelming. We’re looking forward to the next adventure of Santa Cruz before heading out on our 3000 mile passage across the Pacific!

Ciao for now…happy hour beckons;)

Starling has sailed 1/4 way around the world!

Starling crosses the Equator!

Good evening from a the flock of merry Starlets en route to the Galapagos islands. We write to you from two miles south of the equator, having just been granted safe passage by Queen Neptune (aka Felicity). The Equator crossing ceremony involved confessing our sins and paying a penalty for them, sacrificing some rum and chocolate cake to the ocean (sob) and wearing outlandish fancy dress head gear made from whatever was available (colanders, mooring lines, mosquito nets…). We are now all transformed from Pollywogs to Shellbacks. The start of th passage was a tough one, with high humidity and light airs of the doldrums and more than one night time spinnaker drop. But we have been rewarded by 48 hours of champagne sailing and look set to arrive in Galapagos in less than 24 hours. Pictures to follow!

San Blas

After a great fleet start outside Santa Marta we were on our way to the San Blas islands, just off the coast of Panama. The wind died shortly after the start so we motored overnight, but were rewarded with perfect spinnaker conditions the next day. We hoisted our medium-weight kite and started flying along at 9-10 knots. We overtook a few of the fleet and were first across the line at 0608 on Fri 24th Jan!! We  will have to wait for final results in a few days….

We headed into Cayos Coco Bandera, one of the closest anchorages to the south and parked ourselves about 20 metres from what can only be described as a piece of paradise. The San Blas islands are an archipelago of some 200 low-lying sandy islands densely coated in palm trees… they are absolutely beautiful. Only a few of them are inhabited and sure enough, no sooner had we anchored that a pair of local ‘Guna’ tribespeople approached in a homemade wooden canoe, bearing their handmade patchwork squares of all colours and designs. As a tribe,  they are very friendly and all about 5-foot tall(!) We invited them aboard and they showed us their gorgeous fabrics, featuring animals and symmetrical patterns. Wendy, Michelle and Sue all bought some and discussed all sorts of uses.  For others, the water beckoned and the alluring turquoise colour was too much to ignore, so Tom and Dave were straight overboard with their snorkels, followed swiftly by Arabella.

The next few days were free cruising for the World ARC fleet. We hopped a few miles at a time between islands, many of which came in circular chains joined by reef, giving excellent shelter and flat water. The reefs themselves were stunning: between us, we saw uncountable tropical, multicoloured fish, turtles, nurse sharks, sting rays, Moray eels, lobster, starfish, sea cucumbers, anemones; and tons of gorgeous coral of all shapes and sizes. 

To top off an amazing stay here, we bought 2 enormous crayfish from local fishermen and had them as a starter. They were divine. What a great experience. We have a couple more days here before heading on to The Panama Canal. But it’s fair to say that these islands, set to the backdrop of mountainous mainland Panama, offer a unique cultural and marine experience that we have all loved and been privileged to see.

World ARC Leg 1: Bonaire – Santa Marta

Yesterday we left Bonaire around 10:20 in the morning. We first had to clear out of immigration and all had to attend. After the last big rain squall passed we hiked to town. When we came there we had to wait for the immigration officer, this would take some time, so I sent the crew off for a coffee, after 15 minutes the lady arrived and handled the passports… she never asked for the crew!! typical Island style… Anyway send the crew back to the boat as the skipper sorted the last paperwork at the marina..

Then it was time to leave… we could make a nice reach to our first waypoint and beyond, what kept the boat in a balanced state, with less rolling then the previous down wind trip. This morning we gybed around and have now 185 nM to go before we arrive in Santa Marta, what hopefully is early next morning….

It’s now just past six o’clock in the morning of the 18th of January, the stars have given away to the clouds, C watch with Michelle, Tom and Sue have just gibed the boat back on the rumbline.

The wind weakened a bit so we have shaken a reef out earlier this night and are now sailing with two reefs and a Yankee 2. We took the option of reaching and gybing this leg, not like before sailing a dead run. This way we can prevent the rolling of the ship with the more then moderate sea swell.

It’s still 41 nM to go and hopefully we get in around midday. Colombia here we come!!

We managed to come in around midday (Colombian time) very salty as the last 15 nM to Santa Marta where very windy, up to 43 knots.. after safely have docked on the inner end of E pontoon we had time for some home made bread sandwiches for lunch. After that the crew started to clean and tidy the deck while the skipper walked up to the marina office to check in… after all that it was waiting for wat3r for the marina, before we could have our shower.. at 17:00 there was an ARC welcome party with canapés and rum drinks…

The next morning all the crew went on an excursion to Tayrona and skipper and mate had a maintenance day.

At night everybody split in small groups and found there own way to the boat later for an early kip.

The Second full day a big group went for an excursion to Minca. Once arrived in this funky village we slipped in two 4×4 jeeps and drove a loop through the mountains above Minca, meanwhile visiting the Victorian coffee plantage, had lunch at El Campano, stopped at Loes Pinos for an spectacular view and dipped in and stood under the waterfall pools of Marinka. Before returning in Minca where after 6&1/2 hours the taxi’s where waiting again to bring us back to the Marina.

Tomorrow is prep day for the next leg to the San Blas islands…

World ARC Leg: quick stop in Bonaire!

After a week of preparation, that incorporated a training sail to Marigot bay, with the crew, food shopping, paperwork and checking out, Starling was finally ready to start the WORLD ARC20-21 rally on Saturday the 11th of January out of Rodney Bay, St. Lucia.

Our crew Is formed out of round the worlders Gary and Tom, multiple legger Michelle, two legger Sofia and Wendy and Sue,Dave and Sofie who would step off in Panama once we would be through the Panama Canal. The mate for the first 4 legs is Arabella and the skipper for the first leg is Patrick.

The world ARC team organised various welcome and farewell parties during the week before the start and seminars about weather and other topics that could be helpfull on the 15 month journey around the world.

There was a strong breeze blowing during the start and the 30 yachts where swiftly on there way… The course was set with an extra buoy to round of the north coast of Castries harbour to display the boats along the coast before setting of to sea. All the boats will go straight to Colombia, but we will stop in Bonaire for two days before continuing our way to join them in Santa Marta.

The sea swell had build in the first hours leaving the island of St Lucia behind and is a constant 3 to 4 meters in the same direction of the waves. This means straight behind us as we are sailing a dead run with the sails in a goose wing setup, or also wing on wing called, were the main sail is prevented on one side of the boat while the Yankee 2 is poled out to the other side…

We are sailing like this now for one and half day and will be for another one and a quarter before arriving in Bonaire waters. We plan to come in there Tuesday early in the morning…

Fast forward to Thursday afternoon.. and almost the end of our stay on Bonaire

We arrived exactly at midnight on Tuesday the 14 and docked in the right place as well..

Next morning it was checking in with marina, customs & immigration before we could do the exploring bit… Sue and Arabella went for a discover scuba, Sofia and Tom went snorkelling Dave and Sofie where chasing iguanas and Gary and Michelle went to discover town..  everybody had a great time on their first day in Bonaire, at night various groups gathered for a meal, one in the lighthouse restaurant in the corner of the marina, the other in Toranquilha near the waterfront in town..

Next day was a lazy start, while the skipper did the last fresh shopping before he returned the motor scooter he rented to go for a kitesurfing session the previous afternoon.

At midday the dinghy was inflated and a double run to Klein Bonaire was made to have a snorkel session on this flat coral reef fringed island. Actually everywhere around Bonaire is coral reef and protected area, also every person who wants to dive need to do a buoyancy test before they can go for a dive…

Tonight is honey lemon soy pork with vegetables and rice for dinner…

Passage plan is on the way, so we should be good for an early departure tomorrow…

Starling arrives in St Lucia

After an epic crossing of the Atlantic, Starling and her crew arrived safely in St Lucia on Friday morning. They are spending the next few days exploring the island and getting their land legs back and will update you soon!

Starling can almost smell the land (and the land can smell them!)

After 17 days at sea we are all smelling of eau de onion with a hint of diesel and a waft of whatever is lurking in the lazarette. Good job we have all managed to get along ok and live with each others night time orchestrations. Almost everyone now cooking and we haven’t starved. Fresh bread has been produced on board. However, the Water produced on board is an acquired taste – but beer is on the horizon! CS KC KN

Thursday 6th Dec

We are 11 days out of Las Palmas and today was a good day. Refreshed from the showers yesterday, we find that we had completed another 200-plus mile day. Had a visit from a dozen of the tiniest dolphins, passed within quarter mile of a sloop heading the same way, shook out a reef and then promptly put it back in again and generally enjoyed the good weather. The music watch has not run out of playlists and the chatty watch has a few stories still in store. We also took two sun sights today with the sextant which put us in the rough vicinity of where GPS claims we are. Other highlights of the day were the curses emanating from the galley when a big wave hits, about once every half hour, the miraculous aroma of freshly baked chocolate chip muffins and Cathy’s most satisfying chorizo pasta supper. Only ten thousand more waves to go! TTT

Starling’s international crew members update us from mid-ocean

Translated from Hebrew: “You are too old, don’t even try….your experience is not good for blue water sailing.” Those were the comments when we told people we would be joining Starling for the ARC 2019.

We arrived in Gran Canaria, met a group of nice people and got into action: changing sails, ropes, moving gear, arranging the bunks etc

Following a few days of preparation and a couple of practice sails, we felt confident as sailors.

The main problem, how to find where I had packed my things. I spent hours looking for my misplaced shirts and shorts. It was desperate. The following night things got a little better and I stopped starling: worrying- started talking with team mates, asking for assistance when needed and looking for opportunities to help.

Then we started our amazing journey – by night under an fantastic blanket, stitched with millions of diamonds, on a continuous changing see between dolphins and whales! Always assisted by one of our good friends – Starling’s skipper and mate. AL, Israel

Wind seeking

During the past few days I have become very fond of my knee pads, the spinnaker, and warm water. The knee pads will not stop me being first in the bruises competition but at least one area is bruise free. Me and the spinnaker cuddle up when I am too tired to fight my way into the top bunk and warm water featured in the first shower of the trip. Whoopee! Jayne made great banana bread and we finally swept up the cornflakes which made an unexpected bid for freedom during a rocky moment – although some may still be lurking in Kyle’s bed. CS.

Starling is off!

Greetings from the Atlantic high-then low-seas! We are 11 souls on board the good ship Starling, with approx. 300 nautical miles already behind us as we head south then south west off the African coastline. Only another 2400 NM or so to go… We have already spotted dolphins and a friendly whale, as well as polished off a fabulous Thai Green Curry. We’re not going hungry! Someone who will remain nameless broke into the chocolate stash last night. The wind seeker kite is up and we’re hoping it will be true to its name. More anon. JP

Sailing, training and exploring the coast of Galicia, Spain

Starling sails across Biscay

Starling’s crew have had a jam packed time this past week. After the acclimatising safety briefs and intense day of sail training, we spent our first night away from Falmouth anchored in the pretty Helford River – although not for long, as a 5am start called. We set off downwind across the English Channel, sailing most of the way through the busy TSS lanes, getting to grips with monitoring the passage we had planned and refining our knowledge of the IRPCS as we dodged looming tankers. The real excitement was still to come though: a night time pilotage through the Chenal du Four. Although possibly intimidating on the chart, our crew realised how simple following the buoyage and and directional lights could be with the right preparation! It was beautifully led by Martine and Shirley on the nav with lots of new hints and tips to pick up too. We eventually pulled into Brest just shy of 24hrs after setting off. A nap, shower, and glorious fry up in the sunshine rewarded us for our late night efforts, and after an updated weather forecast it was clear that our Biscay-crossing weather window had sprung up. Exploring Brittany will have to wait another day! With no time to waste we left Brest before dinner and motored off into the sunset, and by the following morning the wind had filled in from astern and we were surfing down the swell headed south. It was a fantastic passage – phosphorescent dolphins, a following whale, beautiful stars, and an interesting moment where the French navy called up on the VHF to ask us to change course a few times…. plus a lots of sail plan changes to keep up with the fluctuating conditions. Possibly the highlight of the 48hours and 430nm was Susan’s brilliant double layered Victoria sponge birthday cake, made for Lynne’s birthday – a seriously impressive feat in the rolling swell!We made it to Ria de Viveiro just in time for sunset, inching our way down the channel to the marina. Celebratory beers quickly followed! On Friday the crew enjoyed their first real bit of down time, exploring the quaint Old Town and valley of Viveiro. We sat down in the cockpit for a couple of hours of theory work on col regs and radar, appreciating the heat of the lower latitude, then went out for a really lovely seafood restaurant dinner. (Where it turned out the waitress had thought we were journalists reviewing the food!!) The following morning the crew poured over the charts and books to find possible anchorages and marinas, with the briefing of needing to head west towards Finisterre in good time in order to soon best place ourselves for an opening weather window to get south. Despite heroic efforts John and Mike were unable to make the WiFi work for the England rugby game at the same time… (but very happy to hear the final result!) After lunch when we had sufficient tide to clear the channel, Simon reversed Starling out of the tight berth and off we set to Cedeira. With headwinds and a slight time schedule we motored into the swell to make it in before dark, breaking up the afternoon with running fixes, sail theory, and some hearty sea shanties. The darkening sky and newly flashing transits into the Ria made for an excellent pilotage, with the crashing sounds of the waves on the pinnacle rocks either side keeping the crew on their navigational toes! It’s been a big week of developing our skippering skills on board, tackling the areas the crew want to individually build their confidence in.Last night Morris and Susan whipped up a cracking roast with all the trimmings, and it was big grins and laughs all round as the crew created a rather varied “Starling Playlist.” Perfect for rocking away gently at anchor with a cerveza in hand and new friends by your side.

Starling evens the scores

By wednesday this week it was Start Point 1 Starling 0 but yesterday a very small weather window provided the opportunity to even the scores and even the scores we did!

We slipped out of Darthaven Marina in the dark and the placid conditions could well have made us question the forecast had we not been down this metaphorical road once before.

We hoisted to 2 reefs as dawn broke and the welcome daylight allowed us to identify the numerous fishing pot markers that populate these waters.

As Starling reached Start Point the seas became rough once again and our need to pass this increasingly irksome landmark had us utilise a little engine power to provide some height on the wind until Salcombe was abeam of us and the stail sail once again made an appearance.

The wind backed to the southwest allowing us a more forgiving angle to Plymouth and a total of 8 hours of hard work had us finally arrive at our destination port.

It was hot showers and naps for the crew before a well earned fish dinner courtesy of Rowland.

The next gale has us currently stormbound but I think most of the crew are quietly comfortable with a rest after yesterday’s labour. Its Rowland’s birthday today and Alex is baking a cake as passage planning and pilotage continues amidst some intrepid exploration of this historical naval city.

Finally tomorrow looks to be a little kinder on the weather front as we will make our last 40 mile passage to destination port of Falmouth.

Day 1 of Starlings next adventure and an introduction to sailing for our crew.

The inclement weather in no way deterred our enthusiastic adventurers and no sooner was lunch and safety briefs complete than we found ourselves setting off I to the mizzle.

A pod of dolphins soon distracted from a slightly uncomfortable sea and we sailed cautiously under head sail as the wind was deep behind us.

Our short but full first day afloat brought Starling back to Brixham where we finished with dinner and some navigation theory ahead of tomorrow’s planned passage to Salcome.

Emily

Man overboard Drills on Starling

A Blog put together from the whole crew on our first full day of sailing on Starling!

An early start for breakfast Man overboard drills and setting up the boat had Steven hanging over the side of the boat and then off we set…….

First destination Salcombe, Heading around Start Point and we decided to head back into Dartmouth instead for some respite from the rain, wind and swell.

Rowland thought of the day: We turned at the right time to head into Dartmouth…. if we hadn’t turned when we had we would still be in our way to Salcombe instead we are tucked up having roast pork red wine and cheese!

Sandy: Dartmouth feels like home now looking forward to moving along the coast when Hurricane Lorenzo leaves us alone.

Steven: The sun and rough.seas and wind is much better than rain rough seas and wind…. the rain really put a dampner on it!

Chantel: Great day on Starling – 4 seasons in one day!!!

Night 2 of a great trip so far on this expedition around the South Coast! A great trip ending up back in Dartmouth sheltering from the wind and giving everyone a chance to do some passage planning and pilotage.

By Alex Skipper on Starling

Aldernay to Brixham

Early, early start from Poole in the darkness, before   we slipped out into a perfect autum morning in the English Channel. The sun appeared as we hoisted the main and the number two yankee and began a much more relaxing day than the tack-fest previously mentioned here. For what is supposed to be the busiest shipping lane on the world, the Channel was surprisingly deserted. Apart from the occasional ferry and fisherman, the only company we had were the gulls. The crew dealt bravely with an increasingly lumpy swell and consumed an eclectic selection of foods. Everyone managed to keep it all down and as Aldernay appeared on the horizon the lure of the land (and the pub) brought even the most exhausted mariner back to life. Sadly, thanks to the remnants of Hurricane Lorenzo, we didn’t have much time on the island. A quick run to the shop and the pub was the extent of our exploring. But the views from the pub balcony made us all agree that another visit someday would definitely be worth the effort. At the slipway, Alex was waiting for us with the RIB, as arranged. Back aboard, we wolfed down the chilli our skipper Emily had made. Yet more wine was consumed and the rocking of the boat gradually subsided. One by one, the crew drifted off to their bunks. Another early start beckons, with a following wind to get us safely back to Brixham by nightfall. Good night all.

Starling – Tacking with America’s Cup Efficiency!

‘It’s been a while since you last sailed,’ said Bruce. ‘Why not ease back into things with a gentle coastal trip?’
His words came back to me yesterday as Chris, Alex and I disappeared into a wall of water on the foredeck as we struggled to gather in the brand-new headsails. We were nearing the end of an eight hour day beating into a Force Six. We left Cowes in bright, breezy sunshine and headed for the Hurst Narrows and the Needles Channel. To add to the fun, the spring tide was adding an extra five knots to our speed into the wind. Our first tack was somewhat ragged, our second a fraction better. Three, four and five followed in rapid succession and we began to resemble the well-oiled crew we knew we could be. By tack fifteen we were close to America’s Cup crew efficiency. The wind strengthened, the beat across to Poole grew lumpier and murkier. Navy planes began circling, no doubt impressed by our winch work. SBS boats blasted past us just to stop us getting too big-headed. The tack count reached twenty five as the entrance to Swash Channel finally loomed out of the gloom. We made our way in as the rain began falling in earnest. With the boat put to bed, the crew shed their damp – or in some cases sodden – clothes and changed into their shore-going rig. Always amazing how the rigours of a hard day melt away with a big meal, a few drinks and much laughter. Nevertheless, the whole crew agreed that there was no shame in a rest day in port today before a madcap dash across the Channel tomorrow. Thanks for the travel advice, Bruce. Not what I’d call ‘easing back into sailing’ but a great trip nonetheless.

Starling – New Crew and New Main

The crew arrived into Southampton to join the newly refitted Starling with a promising sense of enthusiasm and fun. After the normal safety briefs for living below decks and the same above, we enjoyed a hearty lunch before setting off for the shakedown sail to Cowes.
It was quiet on the Solent, understandably, as we hoisted a full brand new main sail before putting in two reefs systematically to check the lead of the lines. After dodging the occasional ferry we complimented a double reefed main with a stay sail which suited the conditions and our first sail together perfectly.
Despite the crisp nature of our shiny new sail we managed a reasonable flake eventually and found ourselves alongside and fast into Cowes Yacht Haven by dinner time. It’s amazing how well bonded the crew are already which bodes well ahead of a storm bound day tomorrow. The jobs list grows but in turn so do the smiles between us and I’m confident of a wonderful week ahead as we journey to Dartmouth.

Goodbye Holland!

We set off from Scheveningen at noon heading for Eastbourne via Calais, but not stopping, and with an overnight sail ready to cross the English Channel tomorrow morning. In the morning the crew prepared the boat ready for departure and did some engineering after a slight issue.

After making way David and Billy made us a fantastic salad for lunch. Neal, our super cool skipper, cooked us a beef stew for dinner which was delicious!

After a gorgeous sun, set we saw a Mine Sweeper engaged in mine-sweeping operations (!) just off the coast of Belgium – the Skipper and the Mate, Arabella, were super-excited about this, which was a great ending to a wonderful day!

Matt

Sailing from the Frisian Island to the Hague

Billy and Sue carefully plotted and planned our route from Vlieland to Scheveningen (Den Haag).  We had an early start leaving the Friesian islands early and heading south.  The day was gloriously sunny and the sea was very calm.  However, it was not great conditions for sailing, but marvellous for topping up the tan. Our waypoint buoys appeared just as they were plotted on the charts due to some great helming by the enthusiastic crew.  Entertainment was provided by a playful dolphin, learning monkey fist knots, celestial navigation training and Matt’s Spotify playlist.  The evening meal was provided by David and Peter, who managed to knock up a very tasty and healthy meal.  Finally, Clive took the helm and guided us through the marina and delivered us safely moored in the harbour.  As the sun slowly set, we all enjoyed beers and gin & tonics and toasted another successful day on the sea.

Ellie

Sailing to the Dutch Frisian Islands

A wonderful day on Saturday started with bright sunshine berthed at Vlieland.  The crew discussed plans and, as the weather was expected to be in the upper 20s, a bicycle ride with a swim was a favourite.  We set off with much enthusiasm – and the promise of a coffee and cake early on in our journey.  We arrived at the café at the far end of the island after a somewhat exhilarating bike ride.  Cakes, pancakes, apple pie and ice cream were enjoyed by all.  After a little more bike-riding, we stopped for a swim in the clear blue sea, not realising we were on a nudist beach!  This proved to be a highlight of the day, as we enjoyed the naked architect who was building a wonderful cathedral in the sand.

In the evening the harbour became very busy and we decided to move the boat to an anchorage outside so that we could make our 6:00am departure to The Hague.  Clive unwittingly spent more time locked in the rope locker than anticipated due to Neal’s enthusiasm to drop the anchor.  After a delicious Jambalaya, cooked by our great Mate Arabella, we retired having had a wonderful day.

Clive

Starling sails to the Hague

A rest day today. So, whilst the Skipper and First Mate got on with their chores, the motley crew went on their merry way for some R & R. The Hague was the first stop. Unfortunately, Monday is also a rest day too for many of the museums.

Some of the more cultured among us visited the Muritshuis museum, which opened in the afternoon, Vermeer and Rembrandt being the crowd pleaser. In Scheveningen, more culture and shopping were found with plenty of sunshine and Angela was mugged by an errant seagull, which seemed to enjoy her pistachio and chocolate ice cream encased in a waffle cone, whilst being chased by the rest of the flying terrors.

Everyone returned to the boat rested and refreshed ready for tomorrow’s sailing.

Angela

Starling back through the Kiel canal to the Dutch Frisian Islands

Baltic wild swimming

Today we stayed in port at Klintholm, as the sea was very lively in the morning and the winds uncooperative in their direction. We took the opportunity to practise our navigation skills. We planned out three days of continuous cruising to take us from Klintholm, Denmark to Vlieland, Holland with a brief stop in Germany at the entrance to the Kiel Canal. Three countries in three days.
In the afternoon we took shore leave and five crew went off to Mons Klint for a beautiful walk along the white cliffs and through dappled woods.
Three crew took themselves for a swim in the Baltic in an attempt to beguile Neptune into providing fair winds for the long haul ahead.
Peter

Klintholm

On Monday the 19th, Starling’s crew woke up to a wonderful sunrise in Rødvig. The team had some great navigation tuition from Arabella, the mate, and an overview of the day ahead from Clive, today’s navigator. Starling then set sail to Klintholm, a 25 NM journey beating in F5 conditions most of the way. Along the route the crew refined their tacking and gybing ready for the big offshore passages coming up in the following days.

A couple of the team unfortunately fell ill to sea sickness, but persevered and overcame it!  Everyone had a lovely meal cooked by Pete and Ellie and we were all very ready for bed after an very exciting day.

Matt

Copenhagen – Portsmouth: Day 1

After breakfast, Starling was prepared for her journey, set off towards Rodvig, David our navigator boldly set our course out of Copenhagen, passed amazing engineering feat of the Malmo bridge. Neal and Arabella set about putting the crew through their paces, knots were tied and stays were winched as we sailed in wind of 15knots from the south west, and rain, but we bravely carried on to our destination with gusto and determination with all three sails: yankee 2, staysail and mainsail up at one stage. As we neared out destination, an honorary mention for Matt who prepared an amazing roast lamb dinner single handed for which we were well and truly thankful. We pulled into Rodvig at 18.30hours, tying on fenders and mooring up. After dinner our merry band explored the marina, had a chat and collapsed into bed, snoring merrily into the night.

Angela

Festival time in Malmö

Its Monday. Starling and her crew are at sea in the midnight hours… reacting to the threat of future strong and destabilising winds, which could sabotage our schedule to Copenhagen.

Serenely motoring under the intermittent starlight, both watches have the opportunity to brush up on lights and their importance in night-time navigation – and especially in busy waters.

Practical lesson learnt. Never presume that all cardinals are lit!

Television defines much of our knowledge of geography and we finally sail under the bridge well known in the spooky series ‘The Bridge’ to dock at six o’clock in the morning in the third largest city in Sweden. Malmö!

There is much pride and enjoyment having the opportunity to sail right into the centre of such a city. We watch the city come alive and the residents going to work.

Leaving Neal and Darren working through a list of maintenance jobs, we adventure into a town in the grip of a huge, week-long festival throbbing with concerts – Classical Punk and Rock, Dance and Acrobatics – a cornucopia of market stalls and a plethora of street food. Of course, with a startlingly good looking boat such as a Rubicon 3 branded boat, the city also views us with some curiosity. We are not quite offered the keys to the town – just the code to the marina facilities. But that will do. When a hot shower is so very welcome that will do nicely.

Louise

Today was a day full of learning.

We like learning – that’s what sailing is all about.

Today’s weather forecast was devoid of wind, offering a tranquil day of boring old motor-sailing enlivened only by multiple interruptions of biscuits and coffee (instant, real, ordinary tea, herbal tea, fruit tea, black tea… the list is never ending).

So after perfect pancakes eaten on a sunny deck, we gently spun the boat from its mooring through a Spring manoeuvre meticulously explained and directed by Darren. So that was Lesson 1.

Lesson 2. Taught by Neal. How to use and read a sextant – ‘drawing the sun from the sky onto the horizon’ was such a beautiful phrase that brought learning the concept to life for all of us.

Lesson 3. Last night’s fish stew leftovers make the most amazing soup for lunch.

And then came Lesson 4.  Never trust a weather forecast.  From murmurings of ‘how lovely to have an unexpected chance to sail under blue skies’ to fighting heavy weather helm. The winds were hitting force five wrenching the wheel through white knuckles. With tethers tethered, us crew adjusted the sails and we tacked backward and forwards with an unforgiving wind on the nose and thunder and lightening on the horizon. Not to mention the waterspout! We were anticipating getting picked up and taken to a foreign magical land… with a yellow brick road.

Lesson 5 . Passage plans always need an alternative port to run to. And on that note we are now moored up in a lovely sheltered little local harbour. Not the anchorage as originally planned .

Lesson 6. Love your skippers for their chilled out good humoured direction and control of unexpected situations. Oh and all the lessons they teach us. Yes we had a lovely day today – exciting and unexpected. And it supplied ‘what it says on the tin…’

“Sail Train Explore”

Louise

Sailing to Visby

We woke to our stunning anchorage although it was our first morning of overcast skies. A tricky, lots of submerged rocks, but interesting departure out to the Baltic heading to Visby on the island of Gotlands. Anticipating a day of motoring, it was a pleasant surprise to be able to hoist sails and switch off the donkey at about 11:30. A long journey at 60nm, similar to the previous day. Apart from birds, there has been very little sea life punctuated today by the sighting of a seal. Following a delicious spaghetti aglio e olio lunch, Louise channelled her inner Mrs Hinch in the cockpit to keep us entertained. The sun finally smiled on us at about 4pm when we decided to drop sails due to a dying wind and a difficulty matching course with desired course to steer to our destination. The monotony of a further 4 hours motoring was relieved by resident DO, Rowena, regaling us with tunes. We arrived in Visby port just ahead of a similar sized German yacht and tied up on what looks like the ferry terminal but doesn’t look like there will be one in tonight so we should be ok!

Alexis

Cake and vikings

Most deep and meaningful crew conversations on a boat of such calibre as ours will normally revolve around ……cake.

And so with this in the forefront of our minds, and after a much needed shower, we tripped into our current location of Visby, a World Heritage site, for the purposes of sightseeing and cake partaking.

Now cake consumption was essential, as the trip to the world famous Viking Museum was so incredibly mind blowing that masses of energy was used up to assimilate all the information.

So many sophisticated artefacts made of bronze and metal and stone are on display from as far back as 600BC to tell us about these people, but what as a people will ‘we’ leave behind ?

What will future generations understand from our legacy of plastic straws and supermarket bags?

We notice strangely-dressed people are curiously commonplace in the ‘melee’ of cruise ship tourists and day trippers. There is, coincidentally, a week-long festival that brings people from far and near who dress up in Medieval Viking garb and parade the town – congregating later in groups along the seafront to soak up the sun and wait for the sunset, as do we.

However, we reluctantly need an early night ready to slip the lines early for our long sail across to Kalmar tomorrow.

So, thank you, the island of Gotland – we loved you!

Louise

Exploring by sea and by bike

Starling’s day at the Baltic haven of Utö started with a sturdy breakfast of Huevos a la flamenco which fuelled the team for the day ahead….little did they know how much they’d need it. Skipper Darren had recommended an 8km cycle ride across the island for lunch in an idyllic bay at Alö. Bikes were duly hired and off we set.
The journey through ancient forest was punctuated by glimpses of bays, flowery glades, a military firing range and a disused tank or two. After all the uppy and downy bits on the bikes we reached our idyllic lunch stop ….11km on the log and the distance calculations were already a tad adrift.
Further exploration led us to a woodland water pump with sparkling crystal clear water then on to the bay at Storsand where Chris, Catherine, Rowena and Alexis went for a dip in the warm Baltic sea …..the rest of us basked on the rocks in the warm sunshine and watched in admiration.
The return trip was harder going but was rewarded with copious scoops of ice cream and a gin and tonic or three on board to round off a spectacular day. Final trip log 30km and a few sore derrieres.

Lesley

Starling’s secret salmon rendezvous

A day of glorious sunshine and stunning scenery as we wound our way past beautiful wooded islands. There was not a lot of wind, but the Yankee did go up. Highlights of the day were the rendezvous with a fisherman in a pre-arranged bay marked on a chart to pick up a couple of whole, smoked salmon – and a beer in the sunshine tied up in an idyllic spot on Utö. Our arrival provided some entertainment for the locals through our attempts to tie up to the two dolphins. Thankfully second time lucky! No, really, it was skill and teamwork.

Chris

The crew of Starling enjoyed a well earned drink after an heroic day battling 3 cm waves and 10 knot winds. We left our berth outside the Vasa Museum this morning, managing to avoid the watery fate of the 1628 warship of the same name that sank 1500 metres into its maiden voyage on the spot that we traversed on our very seaworthy Starling. Other highlights of the day included an unscheduled circumnavigation of the “Abba Island” (where the band composed many of its songs), with Mama Mia, Waterloo and Dancing Queen blasting forth from the speakers of our purple party boat. We dropped anchor off idyllic Gallno island and went ashore in the rib. The Stockholm archipelago does not disappoint!!

Catherine

Arholma to Stockholm

Everyone is ready earlier than usual after another delicious breakfast of eggy bread ….so we commence our journey to Vexholm. The route takes through some of the tightest passages of the archipelago winding between the smooth granite outcrops. Whilst the medium of rocky fur lined islands remains constant, the houses are increasing in scale and opulence as we head closer to Sweden’s capital. We spend the day admiring the shoreside houses, discussing plans to escape and settle on our private islands in our timber villas with lawns laid to the waters edge and our own private jetty for swimming and mooring our selection of boats. (And of course what kind of sauna would work best) At Vexholm we get the best possible mooring, allowing us to step straight from the boat into the bar. Vexholm is a delight, the fortified capital of the the Stockholm archipelago. A town, that straddles the tip of the island. Following another great meal, chicken and sweet potato curry, having eaten too much we head off for an evening stroll around the towns splendid villas and the parks – another deer spotted. A few hours to explore in the morning saw crew choosing between beach swimming, electric (and non electric) cycling, and coffee shop mooching. Returning for one last set of boat checks and a scandanvian buffet for lunch, the the assembled and slipped lines for Stockholm. Training is never forgotten and we revised fog, causation, responses and the collision regs (for Yachtmaster) Steve. Approaching Stockholm the shore becomes steeper and the buildings more industrial. Despite the afternoon cloud hanging over the city, arrival in Stockholm was breathtaking and our berth alongside the Vassa museum seems as good a place as any to finish our adventure!

Mariehamn to Arholma

Starling slipped lines from Mariehamn in glorious sunshing. With Finland the Åland islands disappearing astern and Sweden on the bow. We enjoyed cahmpagne sailing beam reach and a steady force 4. With all sails trimmed the team relaxed to mellow beatsin the cockpit with a plentiful supply of teas and coffees served with freshly baked banana loaf. Once securely anchored in the picturesque bay of Arholma, pigeon was inflated and a shore party dispatched to search for a suitable BBQ site. Others took the opportunity to explore ashore, the rocky forests of Finland have given way to Swedish pastures and meadows with the occasional rocky woodland. Sharing the anchorage with us was a rally of Swedish classic yachts – which presented an excellent opportunity for our amateur ‘rick tomlinsons’ to hone their skills. We have been immediately exposed to Swedish hospitality, a local family allowed us to use their shore side BBQ site and jetty. Food was superbly and precisely charred by BBQ meister Steve, whilst the rest of us enjoyed the sunset over the still waters. This morning after a brief rainstorm we have set off for a 47 miles to Vaxholm our last stop before arriving in Stockholm

Kokar to Mariehamn

After an undisturbed (well apart from the occasional gentle growl emanating from the crews quarters) night at anchor, a hearty breakfast was served courtesy of Erika. The breakfast was to be the first of Erika’s culinary delights. Some of us took the opportunity to whizz ashore in the dinghy for last minute sweets and a peruse of the facilities. Weighing anchor in the late forenoon – Starling began to put put her way towards Mariehamn, again thwarted by light headwinds progress was only going to be made with power support. Nevertheless the stunning scenery held our attention, particularly resplendent with gin clear sky blue backdrop setting off the granite and fir lined slopes. Temperatures are soaring in to the high 20s so sun slap and shorts are in order. Aussie/kiwi Sue was acting ‘vasco’ today and was unerring in her precision and dedication guiding the boat between countless cardinal marks and through beautiful rocky passages. As we move west the commercial traffic is increasing giving Steve who is swotting for his Yacht Master examination some well needed practical examples. We arrived early evening in Mariehamn and remained at anchor overnight. The Anchorage was a beautiful opportunity to share another stunning crew meal (lemon tarragon chicken on rice) Erika has definitely set the mother watch standard today. I nearly forgot to mention the best lemon drizzle cake in the world that was served for afternoon tea! After supper – we enjoyed the endless sunset at the north of the Fjord and a ballet of brightly illuminated ferries pirouetting on and off the cruise liner berth. If that wasn’t enough Steve cracked open his whiskey and wound up the vibes on the stereo for an impromptu crew deck party! Dawn saw the crew rise and Steve’s attempt to prepare breakfast, before the exertions of yesterday saw him off and he needed to return to bed. Now secure alongside in Mariehamn the crew are ashore shopping and searching out bargains in Scandinavia’s duty free paradise. Tonight promises a meal ashore, a classic American Car Rally and an open air rock concert – what could possibly go wrong!

Fantastic sailing in western Finland

Wednesday night: Crossing the carpet of ‘Ljung’ (small purple flowers in low vegetation) we ended up at a bunch of summer-cottages hugging the naked cliffs. After a windmill, boathouses and a fence, which Karen found a way through, four furry Alpacars greeted us with their large eyes and curiousity. The small black one came forwards to greet us before he had second thoughts as he stopped, put his ears back and spat at Darren!

Thursday: Tracy woke us up with pancakes deluxe with blueberries and maple syrup. This was followed by a navigation-plan run-through by Sue and Karen using the whiteboard and then the winch-healthcheck-lesson by Darren.

The crossing Jurmo to Kökar,one of the Åland-island, was a dance on the floor of the Finnish archipelago with Starling shooting across the sea with three sails up, 9 knots of speed and us tacking fourteen times going towards the direction of the wind. Navigators galore Darren and Steve considered defenestration of some of the crew, but reconsidered as the over-zealous support was just a demonstration of passionate sailors.

Anchored by a quiet marina in Swedish-speaking Kökar Sue served a delicious bean-feast on Israeli cous-cous (which apparently is made by larger balls than the traditional cous-cous).

Starling reaches Hanko

Tuesday: it’s rained heavily overnight and we wake up in Jussarö to an overcast day with more downpours predicted but little wind. It’s definitely a porridge morning- excellently provided by Karen. Taking advantage of a clear spell we slip our lines and head into the grey. Unexpectedly, the wind picks up mid morning. We hoist the yankee and blow steadily along until a sudden wind shift to the east accelerates us through the sometimes narrow channels. A heavy downpour has encouraged most of the crew to discover important tasks needing urgent attention down below while the rain soon finds the ‘down the neck trickle gaps’ of those of us still on deck. With the help of the wind and Erika’s expert navigation we arrive earlier than predicted in Hanko. We’re back on the mainland, the sun’s shining again and the early afternoon arrival allows lots of time for re-victualling, exploring the small town with its pretty parks and attractive 19th century wooden houses – and the all-important showers and ice creams. Marianne evens finds the super sauna with a splendid view over the marina. After dinner, Mike leads an evening walk over the rocks and onto the beach as the sun sets – just perfect.

Today the sun is shining again, the blue sky is restored and it’s shorts all round – displaying nine pairs of legs of shades varying from white to brown! There’s even seems a little wind to help us on our way as Steve eases us out of Hanko marina. It doesn’t last long though so it’s motoring most of the way giving us lots of time for a lesson from Darren on deviation and variation en route. Steve is multi-tasking today and navigates a changing cast of helms efficiently into Jurmo and a welcome early evening sundowner at the end of another lovely day.

Starling sailing through the Finnish archipelago

A few challenges and skilful accomplishments were the order of the day.
A few of us enjoyed a glorious early morning perched on some sunny rocks sipping coffee in this fantastic little spot. We met some delightful people and were encouraged to head to Jussaro by a gentleman with an amazing home built wooden trimaran.
After yet another culinary delight produced from the galley we prepared the boat for sea.
Nikki and Tracey prepared a masterpiece of a navigation route through hundreds of islands and some very narrow passes. The outside route was cast aside as there was little wind for sailing and the challenge of the narrow, islands route was also more scenic.
We did manage to accomplish some fun sailing in these confined waters with light winds gusting to at least 6knots and Erica helming the 60ft Starling along with great skill.
On arrival at Jussaro and a scrutiny of the dock with several boats already snugly moored Darren brought Starling forward with great skill and accuracy. With fenders set and crew at the ready with mooring lines and under Mike’s calm instruction we managed to bring her in bow to at the very end of the pontoon and also pick a stern mooring buoy without incident.
I’m not sure if it was with shock, horror or absolute delight that the already moored sailors watched a 60ft pink boat bearing down on them.
Jussaro is an interesting spot with
Remnants of a mining era, several nature trails, a cafe/bar and of course a sauna. The evening finished off with some refreshments and an exciting game of quoits and a mini Wimbledon.

Sailing in Finland: Starling arrives in Helsinki

Yacht Starling sails from St Petersburg to Helsinki

Rapid Retreat from Russia

After a lovely 3 days taking in the breathtaking sights of St Petersburg, I joined Starling just in time to assist in the challenging task of victualling at a Russian supermarket – largely guesswork as to the contents described in Cyrillic alphabet!
The rest of the crew joined and we set about making plans for a prompt departure in the morning, to compensate for the stop at the fortified border control island – Russian customs’ officers won’t be rushed, but as it turned out they were efficiently swift and we were entertained by a group of officials engaging in their morning musical aerobics session while we waited.

Haapsaulu and Talinn

Strong wind forces us to remain one more day in  a beautiful little town called Haapsalu. The crew used the morning to explore the town’s castle and relax a little. 3 intensive theory courses were scheduled for the afternoon and everybody showed up, always keen to learn! While the crew enjoyed the evening out with drinks skipper and mate decided to have an early sleep, as next morning at 05:30 lines were slipped and finally STARLING was going for Tallinn. The extended stay in Haapsalu also meant that we really only had that one night in Tallinn, which was about 65 miles away. The earlier we departed the more time we would have in Tallinn. And even if our stay was short, Tallinn exceeded our expectations. What a beautiful town it is. Some went for a guided tour some just wandered around the beautiful old town. Excitement in the morning as the coastguard came by to clear us out of the schengen area, now the last leg of our Baltic passage begins: Off to Saint Petersburg! Nobody has been there and careful navigation is needed to avoid entering any of the prohibited areas. Next blog will be once we are cleared customs and immigration in Russia and explore beautiful St. Petersburg!

Sail train explore on the Estonian Islands

Sail, Train, Explore. The Rubicon 3 motto. Today it is my privilege to take this time to thank all of the people (and their families) both on board the boats and behind the scenes who make this dream become a reality for the lucky few who have discovered Rubicon and what they stand for.

This morning we explored the Estonian island of Vormsi by scooter, where I spent time by a secluded natural wetland gazing on a majestic mother swan with her five cygnets in tow in Baltic waters and later was fortunate to stumble upon a one hundred and fifty million year old Amonite fossil in limestone.

During the afternoon sail to the next island of Haapsalu, we witnessed a waterspout descending from the darkest of clouds and I watched on as our Skipper Darren and Mate Michael were on hand to offer encouragement and advice where needed to our crew who are eager to advance our training and to learn new things about ourselves as well as all things seafaring.

So to Darren and Neal, Bruce and Michael, my personal thanks for your tailored input, and to all others in the Rubicon family thank you for your support. Christina.

Starling heading further east into the Estonian islands

Starling exploring the islands of Estonia

Sailed through the night. Arrived into Roomassare which is in the island of Saaremaa at 4pm. We managed to sail right up to near the harbour entrance. It was only a little harbour and we were told we were the first British boat in 3 years. They put the English flag up for us. They were happy to see us. We Got a free bus into town and there was a mediaeval show going on in the castle. Such a lovely town so clean had a beer went around the castle where we watched jousting. Had a walk back to the square where some of us had a curry. Got a taxi back to the boat and had a drink in the marina bar with an amazing view. Crew member Helen

Starling’s crew in a Latvian prison!

We arrived late in Liepaja, our next stop on our Baltic explorer to St. Petersburg. Well 10pm and moored right next to a very nice looking hotel. We were able to get a couple of well earned cold beers before last orders. We then had a good nights sleep on the boat then french toast for breakfast. It had rained in the night and the wind had got up. We wouldn’t be sailing off today. Strong Northerlies forced us to stay in the sheltered harbour for another 24 hours and so the crew went out to explore the town. And as it always and so often happens: Liepaja had lots to offer! We hired some bikes, went to explore Karosta which was a Russian town within Liepaja. Karosta remained of strategic importance for Russia for a long time and it was not until 1994 that they finally left. The remains of centuries of history can be visited, amongst which the highlight surely was a prison which was built and used by the Russian during the second world war. Nowadays it serves as a museum and a….hotel! You can get the full prison experience including being shouted at and imprisoned for a night. Our crew decided to come back to the much more comfortable good boat Starling for a night of beers and rest before we were off to explore the Estonian islands!

Welcome to Latvia! Starling heads further east

Starling reaches Lithuania

Starling escaped Hel and arrive at Klaipieda. On the way we sailed past Kaliningrad to starboard and the crew could enjoy our first night sail. Our next destination, Kleipeda in Lithuania was about 120 nautical miles away so the crew was divided into three watches to allow for plenty of rest. The night watch saw a stunning moon rise and stars that only lasted for a couple of hours. It was Yvette’s turn to be our skipper of the day and her careful preparation in the morning made the passage and finally the arrival in Klaipeda a delightful experience for all crew. We are now having a good evening dinner and a little rest before our Baltic explorer to St. Petersburg continues! Adventure and a lot of exploring awaits!

Starling headed to Hel!

Leaving for Poland

Starling’s crew had an early departure from Peenemünde, Germany – most of us had an interrupted night’s sleep due to a heavy metal concert the other side of the harbour. We had originally planned to sail to the Danish island of Bornholm; however, the wind angle was far more favourable to head to the Swedish town of Ystad. The 80nm sail north was incredible – by far the finest sail of the trip so far. The marina was very busy so we tied up next to Helene, a fine old Swedish gaff-rigged beauty, in the main harbour. The team enjoyed a day of shore leave – with an obvious highlight being the bugling night watchman. This elusive figure watches over the town at night for signs of houses on fire, sounding his bugle every 15 minutes from the church tower to let everyone know that he is still awake! Apparently, then everyone can sleep soundly. He seemed pleased to have an audience for his 9.30pm bugle and we glimpsed a ghostly hand reach out of the tower to give us a wave. Starling’s crew did not sleep soundly that night, as lightening illuminated the accommodation area and thunder made the whole hull shudder. Now, the 180nm journey to Poland.

Starling speeds to Sweden

Our amazing crew woke up bright and early looking forward to visiting the beautiful Danish island of Bornholm. Within minutes a check of the forecast and we had changed our destination to Sweden and the city of Ystad, home to Wallander! Christina on nav changed her plan and advised Skip of our changed passage plan. We set sail with low expectations for the passage with variable wind forecast but spent nearly all passage racing along, close reaching at 9 in around 20 kts of wind. The new sail plan of 1st reef in the main and Staysail worked bizarrely wonderfully.  Throughout, we all had the joy of serving Master Mariner E Maude who did an outstanding job keeping the crew happy and motivated. In the cockpit Bruce gave an exemplary lesson in celestial nav, removing the complexity from a complex skill.  The watch system allowed crew some down time to re-energise for their next stint, while Tracey baked another cake and made tomato soup, keeping everyone warm and well fed. Everyone was busy as we approached Sweden, making regular sail changes to keep up with the ever changing wind. Neil and Nick took a thorough soaking on the bow as they hauled down the big yankee 1, but it proved most amusing for the rest of the crew. We arrived in in Ystad marina by 1830 onbly to find out it was full and we had to about turn and follow a high speed ferry into the commercial port. Overnight there has been a big electrical storm and we have been lashed by thunder and lightning. Now to explore Ystad! Nick H

Starling arrives in the UNESCO World Heritage town of Stralsund, Germany

We set off this morning from our Rostock berth with fueling and breakfast to be done after. Waving cheerio to our newly found catamaran friend.

Our downwind route gave everyone the chance to helm and getting in plenty gybes along the way. At times we had a gust peaking around 30knots of wind which brought that extra bit of speed – hitting 10 knots briefly.  We had the big spinnaker out the locker and practiced our pole drills, although sadly the weather turned a little too exciting for a hoist today. Plenty more days ahead for spinny fun. We landed at  picturesque Stralsund in Germany after a long, shallow, entry channel. Excellent navigation by Erika and curry dinner by the Rich/Nick combo. After berthing opposite a massive white Tall Ship we had a short explore around the pretty town. A full day’s sightseeing awaits tomorrow.

Graham

Rolling thunder: Starling heads east in the Baltic

There’s not much that makes one feel as insignificant and powerless as being on the open sea when thunder and lightning is all around the boat. The loud boom and menacing rumble never ceases to send a shiver of anticipation down a crew’s spine and the sharp white scar of a lightning strike a couple of miles away hitting the sea is as good a reminder as any that, out on the open ocean, Neptune and his fellow gods rule the roost and we can only sit tight and take what’s coming. The mix of warm air and small low pressure systems coming through is leading to quite a few electrical storms, but this time we were lucky and it passed a few miles ahead of us. It came with near gale force winds however, which coming from behind gave us a wonderfully fast sail around the German island of Fehmarn and down to the old Hanseatic port of Rostock. Having set off in airless hot sun, the driving rain and wind came as quite a contrast and with 40-50° wind shift as mini front after mini front went through, the crew were learning the art of heavy wind gybing apace. With reef 1 in the main and yankee 1 and a good 30 knots of wind, Starling was as happy as could be and we sped along at great speed, with a flat boat and flat seas. After 7 or 8 hours and a hearty spaghetti dinner just before arrival, we found ourselves at the entrance to Rostock port. Big container ships and Ro-ro ferries passed all around or were at the dockside bing loaded and unloaded, and we motored the 7nm down river in the last of the evening light before docking in the town quay. A crew trip ashore was most definitely called for after such a great day of sailing and we soon found a lovely little German hostelry for a cold beer. Last night, the crew slept as soundly as they ever could and it is only now at 0900 that everyone’s up and about, ready for a day of touristing in Rostock. Happy days on our Baltic Explorer 2019 expedition!

Starling find perfect conditions on Baltic Coast

Prepare for the worst and hope for the best. We prepared for driving rain and headwinds only to be rewarded with hot sun and a gentle breeze, which made for perfect training conditions on our first sail along Germany’s Baltic coast. Our day in Germany began obviously with a full English breakfast before Graham expertly drove us off the dock. Neal the mate then admitted he had forgotten the hose pipe so he drove us straight back on! What followed was a lovely warm sunny day of sailing and training finished of with a wonderful time rustic cod stew made by Michelle and Rich. There’s an undefinable magic about the Baltic and it is very special to be back after 5 years. Tomorrow the forecast says wind and rain so we are preparing the sun cream and shades! Many more happy days to come on the 2019 Baltic Explorer.

Starling enters the Baltic!

If you’re happy, time passes fast. We can tell you that the previous ten days have gone without noticing. The Kiel Canal: it’s just a perfect way to chill out and reflect. We had an early start with the sunrise and a lovely English Breakfast with some tunes rapidly brought us to the Baltic Sea where our final destination was waiting for us in Düstenbrook Marina! Everything has to end sometime, but here are some stats about our journey: 11 brave people, 10 days, 5 countries, 2 seas, 1 channel and 1 canal, 7 marinas, 550 nautical miles, 2 days of 24h nonstop sailing, over 1000 knots knotted, 3 mine sweepers, 500 cups of tea and coffee, almost 100 log entries, 10kg of freshly baked bread and pastry, 300 gigabyte of pictures and videos created, and the one and only 60ft long Starling! Our motto was to sail, sleep, eat, repeat. To sign up a holiday like this, you need to be able to go out from your comfort zone, but this is where the flow begins.

Starling in Amsterdam

Well then! Five days in and we have reached Ijmuiden, the gateway to Amsterdam. Our day started at Den Haag with our Bristol-born skipper Darren teaching us MOB drills with all sorts of curious gear to winch and hoist an unfortunate Matlow from the briney ogin. With this new found knowledge it was time to let go the lines and head north for some good sailing to Ijmuiden. With the boat ship-shape and Bristol fashion an evening in Amsterdam lay ahead for those hearty sailors wanting to experience this fine city and all it’s wonders! Oh, for a life on the rolling sea! Ben

#starling

Starling sails into The Hague

We set off from Eastbourne at 10 am with the aim of sailing overnight to Ostend in Belgium. My team was not on first watch so in spite of the fact we were only awake a few hours, we went to our bunks to get as much sleep in advance of the long sail ahead. By the time we were up again, the white cliffs of Dover were in sight looking very impressive running along the coast. Before long, we took the plunge and turned into the English Channel to head to mainland Europe. The shipping lanes were busy so every one was on high alert for other vessels. The winds and tides were in our favour so we made excellent time. At the start of the day we were planning to reach Ostend, but given our speed we were going to reach there by 1 am. Keen to do an overnight sail, we decided to keep going and changed course to The Hague in the Netherlands. At the start of the overnight trip the sky was clear and the stars were beautiful. The passage was eventful, passing a huge windfarm, other sailing yachts and boats laying cables on the seabed. In spite of the long hours, the time flew by and before we knew it we were arriving in The Hague, tired but happy. It was a long day, but it was incredibly satisfying; 26 hours of sailing and over 100 miles covered! After a quick shower, we were by the marina having beers and coffees. The evening was spent exploring The Hague and having dinner together onshore.l

#starling

Starling rocks to Abba!

Vegan fishing on Starling

Vegan fishing on Starling https://www.instagram.com/p/BuQ3L_BhOV0/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1a181acd642dg

Starling arrives in the Grenadines

Early start today as we depart St Lucia for the turquoise waters of The Grenadines. Rick & Tim were in charge of nav as we covered 60 nautical miles, averaging 9 knots and arriving in Bequia an hour ahead of schedule – dream team Starling! Special mentions to Ali for excellent helming, Xavier’s commitment to completing his ‘chores’ and extreme hoovering en-route at significant heel, Sarah for clocking up the sunbathing hours, Nick for catching a fine piece of seaweed (luckily we weren’t relying on his fishing skills for supper tonight) and to Tim, Neal and myself – foredeck warriors who were undeterred by the soaking waves as we brought down the sails in choppy waters. Christian and Mark are now busy preparing fine-smelling Spaghetti Bolognese while Kieran and Neal are plumbing – we definitely owe them a drink in the rum bar tonight!

Kite Surfing and Diving – All The Action from Team Starling

Shared interests on Starling

Welcome onboard Starling

Welcome onboard Starling….. starting the first day off with some video action, with at least 3 photographers onboard this is going to be a well publicised trip! Our new arrivals for this Grenadines trip were very interested in the pool and exploring the area around the Marina. After a quick stop for buying hats Libby and Susie returned and lunch and safety briefings were started. The lifejacket briefing left us all knowing that Kieran the Skipper has a small crotch – gotta love fitting of life jackets and that everyone loves a chicken fajita dinner. Following a trip briefing and some chat about where we are off to, a further chat has moved onto moving to the bar! A good start to an awesome trip was had by all. By Mate Alex on Starling

A Happy little adventure on Starling

Today was a great day for Starling

Another sailing spectacular for Starling

Shaun’s (Connery) blog on Starling!

A perfect Caribbean morning – a real Mary Poppins day promising to be perfect in every way. All up early ahead of schedule for Johnny’s breakfast and anticipation of an exciting day sailing from Mayreau to Mustique. Navigators Susie and Dave promised to turn 20nm direct motoring into 40nm of exhilarating close hauled sailing despite their shpecialism in Rumshack to Rumshack and rock to rock navigation. Our increasingly efficient tacking earned praise from our skipper for teamwork (teamwork makes the dream work) and after 11 tacks (no faffage) and lots of shnaschs was much appreciated! Alex’s Quesadillas made at an angle of 30 degrees were the treat of the day and really appreciated by all🏆

Jeffrey 🕷 our cockpit spider was much in evidence and all were concerned that his ability to avoid feet and buckets of water might desert him.

Various challenges were invented to pass the time from goat sounds 🤪to boat names 🤓 that amused us like Love Knots, Feline Good, 🐾Cattitude🐈 Fat Susan, Why Knots, Kids Inheritance 🍾 Going on an Adventure before Dementia.

Suddenly we were there! We relaxed with a swim and chill in Basil’s bar awaiting a shpectactular shunshet. Sean failed to respond to the American voiced radio call but Starling’s skipper was alert and brought us back for Johnny’s rum punch 🆘 and Wendy and Caitlin’s delicious lasagne 🏅🥇

By Libbie crew on Starling

We awake on the morning